11.28.2009

Practical/Prático/Pratique/Pratico Language

When I was in third grade I got into an argument with my teacher about why we should learn French instead of Spanish. My position was simple and straightforward: I liked France. France, particularly its language, had been a large part of my upbringing: my mother, despite not being a native speaker, taught me the alphabet and numbers in both languages and lulled me to sleep with “Frere Jacques” as often as “Rock-a-bye Baby.” On the weekends she would brush up her French watching PBS’s “French in Action,” and I dreamt about one day going to the places shown in the show’s opening, especially the water garden outside of the Pompidou with “the lips.” To my nine-year-old self, learning Spanish merely meant being able to order at a Mexican restaurant in a different language, which I was too shy to do anyway. No one I was friends with spoke Spanish, and at the time product labels and billboards didn’t show up in both language; Spanish just didn’t play into my everyday life.

My teacher’s argument was pretty simple, too. She rolled down the world map, pointed to the two countries, Mexico and France, and then pointed to us. “Which country is closer?” she said testily. I scowled at Texas for betraying me, its borders cozied right up to millions of people who hablaron español. France was just too far away to be useful, end of discussion.

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Language is perhaps the one cultural marker that has to answer to practicality. Traditions like Fourth of July fireworks expend significant resources in a literal flash, food culture has just recently truly begun to have to answer to its environmental and health effects, and few people look at Michelangelo’s David and say, “Sure, that’s pretty, but think of all the kitchen countertops they could have made.” Language, however, is both inherently cultural and inherently practical. It expresses unique nuances about a culture and what it holds important, such as German’s schaudenfreude or the Inuit’s multiple words for snow. Language conducts culture as well, the means through which oral and written traditions of a people are passed on from generation to generation. It holds a people together and sets them apart – which, of course, is problematic when you want to unify people cross-culturally into a supranational organization. Europe’s 32 official languages express a unique cultural diversity, but presents difficult challenges when trying to communicate messages between nations. I have enough trouble each morning communicating to the cashier at the café which pastry I want, and that interaction only involves two languages and basic vocabulary – I can’t imagine trying to ratify a treaty in a council with ten or twenty languages represented. Clearly the proposed strategy of adopting one to three languages of “wider communication” is significantly more practical. But so are marble kitchen countertops.

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Years after I realized my dream of seeing the mechanical lips of the Pompidou water garden, I opted to study Italian to fulfill my foreign language requirement during college. While I was never the most talented or dedicated Italian student, I did take enough away from my two years of study to order a panino or ask the price of a pair of boots. While everyone around me on the transatlantic flight watched romantic comedies and slept, I stayed up cramming vocabulary and verb ending back into my brain. This was more important and more real than any exam.

Once we’d dropped our bags off at our new apartment, my fellow jetlagged expatriates and I wandered down to the corner café for some much needed coffee. How to order un caffé is the one of the first things KU's Italian program teaches you how to do, and thus I was more than ready, warming my tongue up for the rolled r’s of vorrei like a runner stretching her hamstrings before a 50-meter sprint. I wanted to start this trip off with a quick, easy boost to my Italian speaking confidence, but as each of my roommates ordered with not even an Italian “grazie,” I realized all my training was for naught. The barista took their requests in stride and stated how much money they owed in crisp, practiced English. I ordered my caffé in Italian nonetheless, but the luster of my unique knowledge had disappeared with each familiar English word.

The EU may not need to bother with selecting languages of “wider communication,” for the European people seem to have chosen them for themselves, although it’s clearly a coerced decision. English may be the language of 80% of data storage, but more importantly it is the language of popular media – just try to escape the dulcet tones of Lady Gaga, or flip through TV channels and see how few “foreign” films you catch. And within city centers and other popular travel destinations, English is the language of multitude of tourists. The English language is no longer merely a tool to cater to those from English-speaking countries – it is truly a language of wider communication between peoples from around the globe. One afternoon I caught two people with two different native tongues awkwardly discuss directions on a street corner, cobbling together an understanding from the English they both knew.

Despite my 3rd grade teacher’s strong argument for learning Spanish, my argument against it was just as practical: no one I knew spoke it, so why should I? The same attitude represents the future of the “languages of intimacy,” the unfortunate tongues not chosen for wider communication: eventually everyone will speak the larger languages, and once everyone you know speaks one language, why even bother with a second language of limited use?

Right now, Europeans still generally hold firm to their mother tongues, be even so, it’s undeniable that English is creeping in. When my mother first visited Paris 25 years ago it was virtually impossible to get around without some proficiency in French; by the time I started making trips to Europe with my parents 15 years later, I could easily get by with some hand gestures and a smile, if not plain English. Perhaps linguistic diversity is just another thing of beauty that will disappear from our cultural landscape, hunted into extinction like giant kangaroos and wooly mammoths. But even as we hold language to a higher standard of practicality, maybe we will respect it in a way society has found easy to do with less practical cultural markers: as valuable in and of itself, and worth the trouble no matter the cost.

11.14.2009

Bonne Nouvelle to Strasbourg - St. Denis

A guy and a girl get on the train and sit directly across from each other. They enter with just enough distance between them and they're dressed so different - she in a bright red peacoat, large loose-knit black scarf that swallows her neck and shoulders, her hair pulled back in a bun with casual elegance so that just the right tendrils curl around her face; he in an oversized long grey coat, the kind that looks like and doubles as a sleeping bag if you're homeless, and gaunt cheeks to match - that they could be separate parties.

She gives him only a glancing look, one that you give any guy who stares are unwanted. It's only when he reaches his feet over and embraces one of hers that it's clear they're together. She doesn't look up from burrowing her face in her scarf, which is strange because even at night without huge crowds of people the metro is still warm. As we roll into the next stop she looks up quickly over her shoulder to the door, and her scarf misses catching one tear, which gleams in the light in an almost unreal, early hollywood black & white soft-around-the-edges close-up fashion.

The train stops and she swiftly runs off, the guy jumping up and quickly following her. They stop out of view, but as the train crawls out of the station I catch a glimpse of him holding her shoulders, crouching down to try to meet her gaze as she continues to hide in her scarf.

11.09.2009

Artificial Stressors

Let's just be real, for one second: when I strip away all of the artificial stressors of studying abroad (which, I'm convinced, are put there in order to insure only a rare few expatriate) - the ridiculous group socialization, the hectic, ever-changing schedule, the ridiculous living situations and lack of comfy places to sit - I absolutely love Europe, and see very few reasons not to live here.

The few, of course, are in major conflict with my life goals, but at least they're small in quantity.

Monthly Info

Who says I need a security login screen on my laptop when I can just always leave up the browser window displaying my monthlyinfo.com home page? Assault them with more personal information than they could ever want and you'll never have to worry about prying eyes ever again.

11.08.2009

Two Suggestions Regarding Absinthe

Way to get back on the good side of your study abroad group: produce your gambler's delight sugar cubes almost instantaneously at the suggestion of absinthe shots, then bravely be the first to light your green-soaked club-shaped cube on fire and plunge it into your shot.

Way to confirm your status as fucking weirdo outcast amongst your trip-mates: while all eyes are on you, proceed to drool all over yourself because you can't get the half-melted sugar cube and its accompanying taste of drain cleaner out of your mouth fast enough.

Good times!

11.06.2009

Tri-Color Rotini

The plain colored ones taste plain! But the green ones really taste like spinach! And the orange ones taste like something veggie related as well! Ahh, France! Never full of fakers.

This Morning

Oh look! The sun is out! The sky is blue! Everything is beautiful and gorgeous (but probably still cold) in Paris!

Cough-cough-hack-cough-hack-sneeze-groan.

I'm not even kidding. I woke up this morning and it was like my own body was strangling me. Like I had stuffed pillows of snot down my throat to suffocate myself. I can't believe the only thing that went awry last night was throwing Chocolat off the top bunk. I should be sudden-undergrad-death-syndromed. Except I think that means alcohol poisoning, right?

I dragged myself out of bed anyway because today is the only day the entire week that is not suppose to be completely miserable, and cheered myself up with some Rainy-Day Paris Gambler's Dream Chai:

Sugar cubes in the shape of card suit symbols! As if I needed reason to back the extreme amount of sugar I put in my chai. No suit left behind.

So, listening to some Simon & Garfunkel, drinking my chai, feeling pretty good about the day and then bam! - I cough up a fully-formed, solid booger. Out of my mouth. Which flies onto my computer screen and just plants itself there like a willful, petulant little tike refusing to put on its shoes.

I just gagged, on the ridiculousness of it all. And then my roommate came in and cheerfully suggested I get some allergy medicine, as if I knew more French than "les filles courent." Is that even right?

P.S. Do you like how I just escalated this story to completely disgusting? Because I'm so frustrated right now. Sidenote: remember when blogging use to get me laid? THOSE DAYS 'RE OVER, BITCH.

11.05.2009

Jour... du Jour

Oh, my favorite: being kinda sick but not really sick, but kinda having it around as a good excuse to stay in for the night and drink tea and listen to hours and hours of The Misfits and Of Montreal and Selda. Even if I'm in Europe, I still want a night completely to myself to do nothing but listen to music, which, for some reason, I've been fasting from for no logical reason other than to additionally starve myself of happiness. Yesterday on the Metro I gave up on talking to people and just listened to some Ratatat, and my life suddenly had a lovely glamour to it. Subways are such (somewhat unlikely) romanticized spaces, listening to awesome music and pretending you're shooting a music video is somehow so much better than sitting around spacing out and nodding and laughing at the appropriate parts of a discussion about beer/amsterdam/weirdos on the metro.

Also, my "sickness" is really just a perpetual need to clear my throat. Which is not helping me in the battle against coming off as a judgmental snob, because how can you not seem like a douchebag when you clear your throat before you, say, try to get the attention of someone working at the student center desk. "Ahem - oh, sorry, I didn't mean that 'ahem...' ...uhhh... those are my printouts." Seriously, I'm not trying to be a bitch, I'm trying to express myself in non-mangled sentences.

Other things not helping my war against judging others: listening to my trip mates make fun of disabled beggars, hippies on the metro with pet rats that live in their hoodies.

The latter was pretty hysterical though. Well, until some people continued to freak out about it, and then make fun of them directly behind their backs in the crowded train car. Did you know that if you can't understand anyone because you don't speak French, no one can understand you either? It's like a linguistic asshole cloaking device.

But I'm trying, or something. I'm trying to remove myself from bad situations, I'm trying to do more on my own rather than float along with the group until I start to crack. A couple of days ago we read Descartes, and I've been whispering his third maxim to myself like a mantra, or like a nutcase: Change my desires rather than the order of the world; There is nothing completely within my power except my thoughts.

But maybe it's my serotonin levels I really need to be controlling.

11.03.2009

Jour Deux

I feel like the schedule's going to vastly differ from Florence here in Paris. In Florence I spent a lot of time putting off work sleeping (the good ol' depression cure-all) or going out and wandering the city. Overcast Paris, however, screams, or rather dolefully moans "stay inside... especially until you can say at least one word of French." French people speak to you a lot more than Italians do. Especially if it's clear you don't speak French. I like it; it's not necessarily mean, it's resolute and every so slightly defiant. You come to France, you speak our language, which is the way it should be.

Except that I flat out can't speak French, no matter how many times I make Rosetta Stone repeat things slowly. "Une pomme" will never come out of my mouth to its, or any Frenchman/woman's, satisfaction. However, me repeating it, over and over and over, with different emphasis, in my best French impression, slowly, quickly, and finally with absolutely frustration, would probably greatly amuse them. Oh ho ho! Oui oui! Triumph! The silly American girl fails again.

I'm so afraid that I've reached that age where you lose the capacity to form non-native sounds, and just when I've become really interested in fluency in another language. Over the break I met so many people who knew at least one other language, if not several: my Japanese suitemate knew at least Japanese, English, and Italian, the Irish guy I got hot chocolate with studied Irish throughout school and then a foreign language on top of that, and the Croatians were serious polyglots (Ivan knew Croatian, English, French, Italian, and German, and was considering taking an intensive Russian program).

Being monolingual in Europe embarrasses me to no end, even if being bilingual has little more use than as a cool party trick in the U.S. In general I just feel less intelligent in Europe, or that I know less and less valuable things. My Irish friend, Michael, did not mince words at all when he proclaimed the superiority of the European education system. He claimed that a study had shown that a large chunk of American schoolchildren couldn't even point out the U.S. on the map - "They'd point out China, or somewhere else way off." I told him that one time I was asked if the U.S. was in North American or South - and I picked South. "It's still a mortifying memory, but I was really, really young." Michael's face told me I probably should have kept my mouth shut.

Lena tried to argue with me that it's just a difference in culture - being bi- or tri-lingual is just more important in an area of the globe with so much linguistic diversity, but I still can't really buy it. I wasted two years of Italian education to come out of it with barely the ability to converse with a preschooler, when a huge chunk of the global population can speak completely non-native tongues. The first day at the hostel in Dublin I expressed my embarrassment at not being better at Italian to the two Italian girls in our room. One of the girls looked up and said, "It doesn't matter really, you know the most important language," and then went right back to folding clothes. It was just so matter-of-fact, and so shitty.

I don't want to just ride the wave of colonialism and English-dominance. Being born into English shouldn't alleviate my or anyone's responsibility to study languages, especially when traveling in another country. There's nothing that makes English inherently better than any other language, or any decent reason that English should swallow up other language and thus swallow up some of the culture and specific cultural meanings with it. Languages aren't just interchangeable - they express unique nuances about their home culture that go further than just different names for the same objects or actions or feelings. On the street in Dublin I overheard these this American guy talking about his friend who spoke Irish. He explained that his friend thought English was great for discussing everyday things, news, business, etc., but when he wanted to express his feelings or emotion, he always preferred to use Irish. I thought it sounded fabulous and romantic - and like something I'd never experience.

And so, I'll keep at butchering French pronunciation, and brushing up on Italian, if only to prove to myself that I'm not letting English win.

11.02.2009

Jour Un

Florence was too small, not necessarily urban enough, and smelled like sulfur. Paris is too big, uninviting, and cold. Dublin was like a warm hug - which I received several of from the million fantastic people I met. Someday I will write more than half an unpublished entry about it.

Our Florence apartment didn't exactly set an amazingly high bar, with its washing machine that trapped a load in, micro-showers, and complete lack of heat during the last week, but compared to the Paris dorms it was like a palace. My roommate and I share a stoic dorm room that came outfitted with exactly three spoons, two of which are gigantic, no bowls, no towels, and not nearly enough bedding for how cold it is. Currently I am considering sleeping in layers and using my towel as a blanket. Also, drinking heavily.

In other news, it's raining, I've got a cold again, the internet sucks, and I wish I were having a more romanticized first full day in Paris, but mostly I just want to get hooked up with a proper comforter, or just blow everything off and go back to Dublin for keeps.

11.01.2009

Feet

My feet have never been so dirty, constantly and consistently, as they have been in Europe. I feel like a hobbit.